Q. What takes off tire marks?
Erase cleaner for dark, embedded tire marks are preferred. Enviroclean, Rust Stain Remover, and Nulook Concrete Cleaner can also be used.
Q. Which product cleans fireplace soot?
Erase cleans the off the soot without harming the bricks. Try diluting Erase 1 part water to 1 part cleaner first. You can also use it undiluted for especially stubborn soot stains.
Q. Can the Trojan Masonry & Concrete Sealer be used on limestone?
Yes, Trojan can be used on most porous surfaces including limestone, concrete, brick, and stucco.
Q. How do I clean fertilizer stains off my concrete?
Fertilizer stains are very tough to get out of concrete because fertilizer has other ingredients other than iron such as micronutrients and herbicides. A combination of using our Rust Stain Remover, followed by our Nu Look will greatly reduce the stained surface.
Q. Will Trojan Masonry & Concrete Sealer make my surface slippery?
No. Trojan Masonry & Concrete Sealer is a true penetrating sealer that fills the pores of the substrate and does not leave a membrane coating on the surface to allow any friction coefficient change.
Q. What do I use to clean my interior floor now that I have Trojan Color Sealer on it?
Any neutral pH cleaner like most hand dishwashing liquids and water can be used. Oftentimes a mop or soft sponge and water is all that you will need.
Q. My colored concrete and/or brick pavers have faded. Can I apply your Trojan Color Sealer to rejuvenate the color?
Trojan Color Sealer can most definitely bring back the luster of previously colored surfaces provided that they do not currently have a waterproofing sealer on them. As Trojan Color Sealer provides a semi-transparent stain, it will meld with your current color and is therefore recommended that you purchase a sample bottle first to be sure that you are happy with the final look.
Q. Can Trojan help reduce my dusting concrete or brick from further deterioration?
Yes. Concrete that didn't cure correctly or masonry/concrete that is deteriorating can be strengthened using the Trojan Masonry & Concrete Sealer. A minimum of two coats will be needed in this instance because the substrate is so thirsty. Eventually, Trojan will completely fill the pores and "glue down" any residual dust.
MASONRY - A LIFETIME BOND
Trojan is often used in historic preservation projects because it doesn't change the look of the building (e.g. no shiny or darker appearance) as well as it helps preserve the surface from future degradation.
All foreign matter is cancerous to concrete and masonry. Foreign matter is any acid, alkali, chemical or oil that is embedded in the masonry.
Trojan Masonry & Concrete Sealer was designed to penetrate (2 - 4 inches) into the masonry, concrete, plaster or stucco by starting from the surface and migrating down while concurrently binding all component parts of the masonry into a more dense, solid mass. Once this penetration takes place, all free lime and alkali are encapsulated for all time. As the masonry increases in density, it becomes waterproofed and resistant to acid, oil, and grease. Trojan will also stop dusting, rutting and spalling as well as prevent static.
This process will stop any current deterioration of the surface such as cracking, crumbling, seepage or pitting while simultaneously increasing the density and tensile strength. All voids within the concrete are filled thus preventing any penetration of water or contaminants from the surface either horizontally or vertically. Thus contaminants cannot be absorbed by the masonry and instead stay on top of the surface where they can more easily be washed off. In regard to a slab, the Trojan will substantially reduce vapor emission and water coming up from the ground.
Anything applied only to the surface of the masonry/concrete must eventually come off due to aeration and deterioration. Trojan, because of its deep penetrating ability, cannot deteriorate or aerate; instead, it cures, waterproofs and seals both masonry and concrete permanently.
Any asphalt, tile, linoleum or paint will better adhere to the masonry/concrete after treatment of Trojan Masonry & Concrete Sealer. Due to the alkali being encapsulated and the masonry waterproofed, Trojan will help prevent the alkali and limes from attacking the adhesives that are used to secure the tile/linoleum.
WHAT IS CONCRETE DUST?
Every time a truck or person moves over concrete floors, small particles on the concrete surface are ground away to form concrete dust. Yet, this is not ordinary dust, it is sharp silicate which cuts into machinery, merchandise, as well as the lungs of a company's employees or customers, causing damage in every instance. Concrete dust is a sure sign that your floors are disintegrating and will soon demand expensive repairs.
Trojan Masonry & Concrete Sealer bonds the surface to eliminate dusting, therefore, causing the billions of independent particles (concrete dust) of masonry to be solidified into one entity, eliminating costly machinery repair, lung infection and annoying dust.
BENEFITS USING TROJAN MASONRY & CONCRETE SEALER
Trojan Masonry & Concrete Sealer
» Is not a surface coating
» Penetrates 2 to 4 inches into the concrete or masonry
» Does not contain any material foreign to masonry, nor does it contain any oils or solvents
» Is inert, inorganic, non-toxic, odorless, non-flammable and non-injurious to the hands and lungs.
» Insulates and waterproofs concrete, cement, brick, stucco, plaster, mortar, terrazzo and most natural stones
» Permanently insulates and waterproofs walls and floors, inside and outside on new or old, unpainted surfaces.
» Insulates and keeps out dampness and seals floors or walls; makes floors resistant to grease, oils and most acids
» Can be applied to new or old concrete and will affect a satisfactory result because it penetrates deep into the substrate
» Solidifies the component parts of the masonry into one single mass
» Stops the mortar between bricks and building blocks from deteriorating and crumbling to dust.
» Increases tensile strength and prevents concrete floors from surface cracking, crumbling, dusting and rutting. It increases the wearing quality of the surface and does not make the floor slippery or change the surface texture
» Applied to green concrete, allows it to cure properly and insulate as well as resists drying unevenly and hairline cracking. It increases the bond between the cement and the various aggregates, making a dense, hard and waterproof surface
» Encapsulates the lime and the alkali in the masonry and reduces dampness. It thus prevents saponification of paint by stopping the leaching of the lime and alkali into the oils of the paint, enabling the paint to last from 2 to 5 times longer (depending on the quality of the paint)
» Is ready to use. No mixing required. It penetrates and dries quickly and clear without any gloss
» Usually only requires one coat. Saturate surface with Trojan in order to allow concrete/masonry to absorb as much as possible.
APPLICATION OF TROJAN MASONRY & CONCRETE SEALER
Concrete or Brick
Let the concrete dry for 10 to 14 days after being poured so that water can evaporate from the interior, then apply Trojan. Use a low-pressure sprayer (Hudson type) or any sprayer operated at no more than 20 psi.
Clean first with Nu Look Concrete Cleaner to remove all dirt and debris. Use a 3000-psi pressure washer to clean. Allow drying. Spray Trojan onto the entire surface area using approximately 1 gallon per 200 square feet. Allow drying.
Clean using Easy Brick Cleaner to remove all dirt and debris. Use a 3000-psi pressure washer to clean. Allow drying. Spray Trojan onto the entire surface area using approximately 1 gallon per 200 square feet. Allow drying.
Allow 5 to 7 days for completion of penetration/curing process.
Allow drying completely (3 days) prior to the application of paint if that is desired. Trojan will waterproof the surface so well that non-moisture resistant paints (such as but not limited to latex) should NOT be used. Use only good quality moisture-resistant paints such as acrylic or oil-based paint.
#1 Acid etch is not required assuming there is no gloss on concrete and water absorbs well
#2. Will not harm glass, tile or aluminum
#3. If applicator sprays Trojan on glass, rinse off immediately. It will not etch the glass but will be hard to scrape off.
New or Old Stucco
Rinsing down the surface is recommended for the purpose of flushing away dust and dirt for new stucco. Allow drying completely.
Apply with a low-pressure sprayer (20 psi).
Apply to the entire surface area of old or new stucco, using approximately one gallon per 200 square feet. Start from the bottom, gradually working upward. Have a second person follow up any drips with a painters roller. Let penetrate and cure for 12 to 48 hours, until the surface feels dry.
Complete curing requires 2 weeks or longer. If stucco is very porous, it may require two coats.
Repairing Cracks in Stucco
- V- out the section to be repaired, removing all loose material.
- Apply Trojan with a brush or low-pressure sprayer to cover all surfaces to be patched.
- Repair and patch the area in the usual manner.
- Brush Trojan over the patched surface and allow to penetrate. Trojan will effect a secure bond between old and new stucco without cracking.
- Let cure for 12 to 48 hours, until the surface feels dry.
- Trojan normally cures completely within 2 weeks, however, depending on weather conditions, it may take longer.
To test the effectiveness of Trojan Masonry & Concrete Sealer in reducing the water absorption, three different types of face and common bricks were used. First untreated, then treated with Trojan.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS ABOUT TROJAN MASONRY & CONCRETE SEALER
1. What makes Trojan different than other sealers?
Trojan is different from other sealers because it is made from an environmentally safe polyester polymer and other proprietary ingredients that once in the concrete fills the pores and blocks moisture from coming through the matrix. Other sealers are either silicones or derivatives such as silanes or siloxanes which are only surface sealants or have minimal absorption and therefore subject to wearing and weathering as well as cannot be coated or painted afterward. Sealants that contain silicates or siliconates tend to migrate out of the concrete or masonry substrate. The remaining sealers contain hydrocarbons which are solvent-based surface sealers that are toxic and contain high levels of VOC (volatile organic compounds).
Trojan is very different from other sealants because of its deep penetrating ability (2-4") as well as the fact that it is non-flammable, non-toxic and is extremely low in VOC's. Because Trojan is a not a surface sealer it will not wear or weather away over time, instead, it becomes part of the concrete matrix and actually increases its strength, therefore, protecting it from future spalling (flaking or deterioration of the concrete). Trojan dries clear with no sheen and will not discolor the surface in any way. Yet, it will provide a good chemical bond to any quality acrylic paint, urethane or epoxy coatings if the client desires an additional surface coating in order to change the color or provide a sheen. Trojan also helps the surface paints last longer as it encapsulates the alkali inherent in concrete which attacks surface coatings. Trojan also reduces efflorescence and vapor emission from rising to the surface.
2. Clarify time between coats on an existing floor that is extremely porous?
Although only one (1) coat of Trojan is generally needed, the first coat should be to saturate the substrate. That is to keep applying Trojan until the floor will no longer absorb any more. Then the floor should be back-rolled to mop up any excess. If a second coat is to be applied then it should be before the first coat has dried. On some extremely porous concrete, the first coat may be allowed to dry completely and then a second coat applied. Make sure that the excess is back-rolled to remove from the surface (you will know the concrete is dry because when it is wet it turns a darker color and lightens as it dries). The length of dry time varies due to how much the floor absorbed, the air temperature, the air movement, and whether there is sunlight on the floor. Some floors dry in a day or two and some may take a week or more to dry.
3. What is the humidity level & to what extent is it reduced using Trojan?
Concrete is a very absorbent and porous material also absorbs moisture and humidity from the air and from the ground (if no polyethylene sheet was used). The concrete floor should have a Calcium Chloride test performed before applying Trojan. Then apply Trojan as described above. Allow the floor to dry thoroughly. This may take a week or more to thoroughly dry. Then perform the Calcium Chloride Test again on several places on the floor (the building should have heat and air conditioning running. If they are not running you will be measuring the humidity in the air and not what is in the floor.) You can expect the Trojan to reduce the readings 2-4 points.
4. Does Trojan penetrate concrete of all descriptions i.e., 2-4 inches?
Trojan does penetrate concrete of all descriptions. Most concrete is poured 3,000-4,000 psi and Trojan penetrates extremely well. Our Trojan was used on a Nuclear Power Plant on which the concrete that was poured was 8,000 psi (extremely dense and hard) and then Trojan was applied. Then two cores were diamond sawed out to test for penetration via ASTM Test 123D by Keeler & Long of Pittsburgh Plate Glass. The results were that it penetrated 2.25 inches.
5. Is Trojan affected by underfloor heating?
Since underfloor heat does not get that hot, Trojan in the concrete will be fine. Also Trojan will not affect the cables since the polyester polymer is inert.
6. Is the curing time the same on an aggregate, as on a masonry floor?
The curing time for aggregate should be the same as concrete. If the aggregate is stone, they won't absorb very much. The concrete that is bonding the stones is what you need to cure and dry.
7. How soon after the application of Trojan can a solid wood floor be laid?
This all depends on the circumstances listed in #2 above. Also, a Calcium Chloride Test should be performed on several places on the floor before and after the application of Trojan to make sure that the levels are what the wood floor manufacturer specifies.
8. Where does the moisture go?
After the floor is thoroughly saturated with Trojan, the moisture is first absorbed by the concrete. Then as the floor dries it is slowly evaporated into the air. The length of time this takes depends on the air movement, temperature, porosity of the floor and sunlight on the surface (hydrostatic pressure). The side walls should not be affected unless Trojan was slopped up against the wall. Most drywall is hung so that it is left 1/4"-1/2" off the floor. This will prevent wicking of excess moisture up the wall. To speed drying, fans can be left running.
9. Can Trojan penetrate power screened floors and to what extent?
Assuming power troweled floors. To screed is where they level off the wet cement with a long screed board. Power troweling is a machine that trowels the semi-set cement with four trowels on what looks like a fan on the floor. Trojan will penetrate this type of floor also. It may take a little longer to get the Trojan to penetrate since the power trowel creates a sheen on the floor.
WHAT IS EFFLORESCENCE?
Efflorescence is a hardened crystalline deposit of salts, which migrate from the center of concrete or masonry to the surface to form insoluble calcium carbonates that harden on the surface. Given time these deposits form much like how a stalactite takes shape in a cave except on a flat surface. Efflorescence usually appears white, gray or black depending on the region.
THE PROBLEM WITH EFFLORESCENCE
Over a period of time efflorescence begins to negatively affect the overall appearance of masonry/concrete and may cause the surfaces to become slippery when exposed to moisture. If left unchecked, this efflorescence will harden whereby the calcium/lime deposits begin to affect the integrity of the cementitious surface by slowly eroding away the cement paste and aggregate. In some cases, it will also discolor stained or coated surfaces.
Efflorescence forms more quickly in areas that are exposed to excessive amounts of moisture such as near pool decks, spas, and fountains or where irrigation runoff is present. As a result, these affected regions become very slick when wet thereby causing a significant loss of “friction coefficient”. This can be of serious concern especially as a public safety issue to individuals, principals, and property owners by exposing them to possible injury and increased general liability claims.
THE SOLUTION TO REMOVING EFFLORESCENCE
Our Efflorescence Remover effectively removes the calcium/lime build-up without damaging the integrity of the surface it is cleaning unlike more harmful cleaners such as muriatic acid.
Efflorescence Remover is an environmentally safe, non-toxic alternative that will not harm plants or animals and does not discharge any offensive odor, making it the ideal cleaner for application in public areas.
Apply by hand pump sprayer to the surface until foam begins to appear. The foam only appears when efflorescence is present. Wait five minutes, mechanically agitate and wash. Re-apply to areas where the foam appears and continue to reapply until the foam no longer occurs after application. One gallon of Efflorescence Remover covers 350 square feet.
PROHIBIT EFFLORESCENCE FROM RETURNING
Trojan Masonry & Concrete Sealer is a penetrating sealant (2 to 4 inches) that when applied to deep cleaned surfaces will significantly reduce water vapor transmission, fill the pores and voids and deter impurities from entering the concrete matrix. As the sealer fills the pores of the concrete/masonry it not only disallows water from being absorbed but also notably reduces the migration of efflorescence to the surface. Our sealer is non-toxic, is low VOC and dries clear with no sheen. One gallon covers 200 square feet.